Bob Gordon, May 2014

DINING OUT

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Over the past several years, there’s been an influx of mini-chain, youth-wooing dining emporiums (dinning emporiums in some cases) along Lancaster Avenue. In some, culinary focus plays second fiddle to the energy devoted to mixology-ing hip, new specialty drinks (and equally important, hanging a cool name on each), hiring hot serving staffs, and animating overly hip bar scenes. Some places manage to morph sideshows into main events.

It’s tempting to dismiss the entire roster of this genre as the latest wave of nondescript “Little Boxes,” like those that Malvina Reynolds bemoaned in her timeless poem and song of the same name. You know: They’re all made out of ticky tacky and they all look just the same. But that’s facile. Unfair. And ultimately inaccurate.

After visiting a number of eateries in this genre, Carmel Café in Wayne sticks out. Sure, it rolls with the same laidback vibe and retro-classy décor that characterize many others. But Carmel Café also boasts some satisfying, nicely executed dishes—dishes that rise a notch or two above the standard bar noshes and less-ambitious gastropub fare served at other such establishments.

The most distinguishing fare lies in the Signature Shareables category. Shrimp ceviche is a standout. An ample serving of shrimp cut into small tender segments is enlivened with cilantro, avocado, and peppers drizzled in perky citrusy juice. Pepper flakes add subtle burn to each bite. The puffed-up vegetable crisps plated with the ceviche are surprisingly tasty. Their dry crunch and texture proves an ideal complement to the ceviche.

Chickpea Fries are sensibly breaded with a notable lack of discommending sogginess and heft that wreck many other renditions. The accompanying two sauces—a pot of dulcet tomato jam and a pot of curry aioli (slightly sweet curry with fresh tarragon)—are delectable. Spinach Gnocchi crafted with Ricotta, spinach, and basil splashed with Parmesan cream sauce, is disappointingly bland. The pasty consistency is not palate pleasing. It’s the least distinguished selection in the otherwise tasty “Shareables” grouping.

All three flatbreads are excellent. A smoky undercurrent intensifies the thin, crispy crust, which is hearty enough to stand up to the savory combos that top it. My favorite is Braised Short Rib and Portabella Mushrooms where braised meat couples with succulent mushroom slices atop a bed of Mission fig marmalade and fontina cheese.

The Small & Large Plates menu section has some pleasant dishes. You can order either a Small or Large portion at extremely moderate prices. In fact, no Large Plate choice exceeds $18—a price that will get you a hefty portion of Basil Grilled Salmon. Although the accompanying couscous is uninspired, the salmon is large and savory, with earthy kalamata olive tapenade.

Steak Frites is a bargain. A pool of Béarnaise aioli that needs a tad more perk surrounds grilled and sliced Meyer natural angus. It’s sided with a generous heaping of Carmel fries. All in all, it’s a copacetic version of the French bistro classic.

Do order some reasonably priced sides, which, on the whole, are well conceived and well executed. Tangy, delicious wilted kale benefits from the heated oomph it gets from red pepper. Pistachio Apricot Quinoa synergizes these disparate ingredients into lush, coherent unity.

And yes, you can enjoy a de rigeur slate of specialty cocktails along with reasonably priced wines and brews. By-the-glass wines are available in 3-, 6-, and 9-ounce pours—a gracious and utilitarian feature for samplers and designated drivers counting their ounces.

The interior softly illuminates warm woods. Cheery servers, ordering via an iPad, and a mellow new-age club-music soundtrack creates a soothing scene that allows for conversation, grazing, conviviality, and beverage sampling and doesn’t trade on the ticky tacky of other little boxes.

Carmel Café & Wine Bar, 372 W. Lancaster Avenue, Wayne, PA (484) 580-6725 www.carmelcafe.com