Bob Gordon, April 2014

DINING OUT

    “Living is easy with eyes closed.” So said John Lennon. Heirloom Chef Al Paris does not have an easy life. His life is busy and productive, albeit exhausting, thanks to engaging life with his eyes wide open.

Throughout a few decades of diverse experiences in the restaurant industry, Al kept his eyes—and his recipe book—open. At Pat Bombino’s, Al focused on homey Italian cuisine; at Zanzibar Blue, soul food; at Guru, Pan-Asian Comfort Food; at Oberon, French. That’s a brief sampling of his CV, which bursts with culinary adventures that stretch from Napa Valley to Philly. 

    Al owned and operated a number of swanky, glitzy places in center city. Rococco was spectacular. Guru, a techno-Asian gem, was intoxicating. In contrast, Heirloom’s ambiance is stylish-rustic. It’s decidedly non-glitzy. Overhead, a wooden ladder suspends over a communal table. Grape vines weave in and out of the rungs, which support twig-wrapped spheres and clusters of vintage canning jars. Within each jar is a bulb that provides soft illumination. Paris actually made the dining room tables himself out of reclaimed wood. As it turns out, the countrified, gentrified décor is a terrific fit for Chestnut Hill. Heirloom beckons with upscale food served in a business-casual yet classy setting.

    Al is in his culinary groove at Heirloom where he can focus entirely on the cooking arts. It’s apparent he’s loving that freedom. And judging from the packed rooms I’ve seen here—even on some of Philly’s most brutally cold evenings—locals and foodies alike share the love.

    Al supports a farm-to-table philosophy. His menu is not bound to any particular style. He can freewheel. Sometimes that’s dangerous for less experienced chefs. But he seems to be wielding his freedom with wisdom, aplomb, and some sublime results. For instance, as an escargot traditionaIist who generally favors the classic French parsley, flaked garlic-butter and brioche preparation, I was skeptical of Escargot & Herb Egg Noodles. But the recipe proved clever and effective. Wide laces of noodles sop up the traditional butter-garlic sauce and serve as a delectable platform for the escargots. The dish is bolstered with wild mushroom and zucchini with Fresno chili giving subtle tingle to the undercurrent.

    Heritage Brisket with Pumpkin Ravioli team to textural perfection, while shaved green onion butter adds a perfect layer to a balanced taste spectrum. A puffy, buttery Wellington is stuffed with butternut squash and sweet Medjool Dates. The Wellington bathes in hearty, deep brown port mushroom ragout sauce and the accompanying vegetable medley rocks. Sautéed kale brings balance to a cast of whole roasted carrots, white radishes and zucchini ribbons.

    Roast Wild Boar Meatloaf typifies the Chef’s adventurous, sometimes playful stylings. The accompanying spoonbread is deeply soulful itself, but when teamed with meatloaf, the combo is a comfort food coup, particularly when candied boar belly, caramelized to divine sweetness, and maple-mustard sauce join the party.

Heirloom’s salads reflect care and attention. The crunch of wholesome, healthy (and underutilized regionally) Wheatberry pairs well with delicate Little Gem Lettuce. Toasted pecans embellish, while burst cranberries and zingy orange vinaigrette shore up the taste.

    As for dessert, kudos to the already popular doughnut. It’s essentially a funnel cake disc topped with ice cream and sautéed apples with cinnamon and butter. Crème brûlée becomes a standout with accompanying house-made—and delicious—chocolate bark.

    Al Paris’ CV is impressive. He was featured at NYC’s James Beard House. In various other venues, he took home awards like “Best New Restaurant,” “America’s Top Tables,” and even Philadelphia’s “Best Gourmet Cheesesteak Award.” But in Chestnut Hill, which has recently leapfrogged from foodie anonymity to foodie destination status (thanks to Heirloom and Chip Roman’s Mica), Al Paris seems to have found his zone. He recently opened Green Soul, a health-conscious cafe, in Chestnut Hill, and just opened Paris Bistro and Jazz Café, his jeu de mot homage to Paris, the City of Lights. Although Al is a busy veteran of many kitchen campaigns, I have to say: the last time I saw Paris his heart was young and gay.

Heirloom, 8705 Germantown Avenue, Philadelphia, PA (215) 242-2700 heirloomdining.com

Email comments and suggestions to r.gordon33@verizon.net

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