Nikólas
Nikólas
Bob Gordon, August 2014
DINING OUT
Email comments and suggestions to r.gordon33@verizon.net
Nikólas continues to impress. Nikólas at Logan Inn has to be tempted to kind of “olé” the food operation, given the Logan Inn’s enviable visibility to New Hope’s throngs. Even an apathetic dining operation could probably turn tables over simply by luring unaware tourists and passersby. That’s not the way Nikólas rolls.
There were periods over the last few decades when I’ve witnessed the Logan Inn rely entirely on its privileged location-location-location trifecta. Those days ended when Pandelia “Pete” Gialias purchased the Logan Inn in 2007. Throughout Pete’s tenure, I’ve enjoyed a succession of wine events, wine-pairing dinners, and fine meals.
Although the Nikólas menu draws from a mix of culinary traditions, it’s the Greek dishes that score biggest. Dishes like Seared Octopus and Grilled Sea Bass demonstrate Chef and CIA grad Elliot Matos’ soulful mastery of Greek cuisine.
The Logan Inn’s ambiance is lovely: historic and homey inside, casual-chic outside. Alfresco dining is New Hope-laidback with tables set with white tablecloth and attentive service. The alfresco deck, slightly elevated above the sidewalk, is an ideal perch for soaking up the New Hope scene.
Ah, but that Greek fare … Yes, the Seared Octopus I mentioned just might be the tastiest anywhere. The octopus rings a mound of arugula piled with diced onions, pepper, and tomato spritzed with aged balsamic and extra virgin olive oil. A smoky undercurrent smolders in each forkful. Four juicy mango slices spokes radiate out from that centerpiece—functional eye-candy for a juicy, fruity finish to each bite.
Another Med-inspired appetizer, Smoked Fish Platter, plates smoked-in-house trout, sturgeon and salmon alongside mussels and scallops with capers, shallot, and mustard vinaigrette for fuller taste.
Grilled Whole Fish like sea bass or snapper, served either whole or deboned, is the Greek pièce de résistance. It’s become almost mandatory that someone at our table order it. The preparation never disappoints. The fish always emerges moist, with its natural juices. A recent Mediterranean sea bass was served in a pool of fava purée, and paired with spinach, rice pilaf, and Swiss chard.
Aside from the Greek treats, the menu is mostly contemporary American, with a focus on steaks and seafood—though most manage to incorporate some Greek and Mediterranean elements. For instance, porcini-stuffed gnocchi, which accompanies a Chicken & Dumplings entrée is standout enough to be an entrée itself.
Shrimp is charred and served in the same fava purée as grilled whole fish. Another entrée, Eggplant Rolatini, scores due to the richness of three different cheeses: ricotta, mozzarella, and Parmesan. A vegetarian dish, Spring Vegetable Fettuccine, is a tempting riot of color, taste, texture and crunch. Wild, local mushrooms, sun-dried tomatoes, asparagus, broccoli, and pecorino romano cheese dressed with garlic and olive oil combine in healthful, colorful harmony.
Some notable Greek homemade $8 desserts make Nikólas a late-night destination. Sicilian Ricotta Cheese Cake, Greek Yogurt, and pistachio gelati, fig and goat cheese gelati all reel with Greek zest. Warm Rice Pudding is topped with a scrumptious honey-roasted pear. And my personal favorite is Galaktoboureko: semolina custard in flaky phyllo, brightened with clear citrus syrup. Logan Inn is a definite contender for where to grab a late-evening dessert after a day in town.
The deck has been fitted with overhead infrared heaters that will extend the alfresco dining season. That’s good news. The deck is roomy, airy, and comfortable—and presumably off-limits to some of the alleged ghostly beings inside (take the New Hope Ghost Tour to get filled in, or ask your server). The fare is tasty, reliable, and consistent, with some stand-out dishes.
Nikólas doesn’t rely on location-location-location. Their model is more like food-ambiance-location. And that’s a winning trifecta.
Nikólas, 10 West Ferry Street, New Hope, PA (215) 862-2300 www.nikolasnewhope.com