By Patricia Savoie
I ASKED ALDO SOHM, sommelier at Le Bernardin in NYC and winner of the Best Sommelier
in the World competition in 2008, how Riesling wines from Austria compare with German
and Alsace Rieslings. Aldo, who came to the US from Austria several years ago, says, “As
different as night and day.” A large part of the reason for this dramatic difference is that
the Riesling grape, more than almost any other, has the ability to pick up mineral
compounds from the soil. They are perfect at showing off terroir. And there is plenty of
terroir in Austria’s main Riesling growing area: the Wachau.
There are other areas that produce good Rieslings — Kremstal and Kamptal to the north
of Wachau — but to my taste, Wachau takes the prize. All three regions are on or near
the Danube River just west of Vienna. The soil consists of layers of crystalline stone
down to a depth of 60 feet. So, the grapevines have to struggle through the stone to
reach water, and as they do, they absorb those mineral components. Austrians
themselves consume about 80 percent of their domestic production, which, given the
country’s small growing acreage, doesn’t leave much for the rest of the world. What does
move beyond the borders tends to be relatively expensive. And then there are the names
and labels (try tripping into your local wine store and asking for “Prager Wachstum
Bodenstein Weissenkirchen Wachau Smaragd Riesling”). Another factor behind their lack
of broad appeal is that they tend to be overshadowed by Gruner Veltliner — the most
popular Austrian grape and wine, and current darling of many hip sommeliers. It’s worth
the search for these Rieslings, however. Wines from the Wachau show notes of apricot
and peach in the nose and on the palate.
Unlike the majority of Rieslings from Alsace and Germany that reach the US, Austrian
Rieslings are usually dry; many (not all) of those exported from Germany and Alsace
tend to be sweeter. Compared with most Alsace Rieslings, the Austrians are crisper
and fruitier. Next to dry German Rieslings, they are more aromatic, have less acidity
and are a bit fuller in body. They are perfect food wines, from Spring through Fall.
Wachau Rieslings use three terms to indicate the wine’s richness. Most are “Smaragd”
(named for the Wachau’s green lizard). These Rieslings — which must be more than
12.5 percent with low residual sugar — are richest and full-bodied. They tend to be
most age-worthy. “Steinfeder,” the lightest, and “Federspiel,” made from riper grapes,
may have from 11-to-12.5 percent alcohol.
Some Recommended Austrian Rieslings:
Stadt Krems Riesling Grillenparz (Kremstal) 2006: Good balance of all elements.
A bargain. ($21)
Loimer Riesling (Kamptal) 2007: Mineral and a touch of petrol (good) on the nose.
Apricot and honey. Nice citrus notes. A value. ($20)
Domane Wachau Terrassen Smaragd Riesling (Wachau) 2006: Lean with crisp
acidity. Lemon and lime zest. A bit light in the mouth, but a real value. ($22)
Domane Wachau Riesling Smaragd Achleiten (Wachau) 2005: A lovely wine all
around. Honey notes over the citrus. ($30)
Knoll Riesling Smaragd Schutt (Wachau) 2005: Fresh and floral. ($30)
Hirtzberger Riesling Federspiel Steinterrassen (Wachau) 2007: Very nice citrus
and fruit notes with mineral tang. ($34)
Hirtzberger Riesling Smaragd Hochrain (Wachau) 2006: Good citrus with a
touch of sweetness that makes it appealing. ($45)
Knoll Riesling Smaragd Kellerberg (Wachau) 2006: Nicely balanced with that
hint of petrol and mandarin orange. ($45)
Prager Riesling Smaragd Wachstum Bodenstein Weissenkirchen (Wachau)
2007: Lush with plentiful fruit and a nose of melon and pear that carries over to the
palate. Balanced acidity. Nice with spiced foods. ($65)