By Patricia Savoie
NEW ZEALAND’S SOUTH ISLAND is wild and beautiful, and it is home to some of the world’s most visually stunning vineyards. In Central Otago, the south part of the south island, mountains and lakes and rivers contrast with the lush green vines, many of which produce world class Pinot Noirs.
At latitude 45º south, the Central Otago Wine Region is in fact the most southerly wine producing region in the world. The high mountains shield the vines from the ocean influences so that the grape vines lie mainly in the dry inland area. There, they are subjected to hot summers, cold winters and long cool dry autumns, resulting in a unique microclimate.
If you look at latitude 45º north, you will find both Burgundy (all of whose red wines are from Pinot Noir) and Oregon’s Wilamette Valley, another Pinot Noir hotbed. Low rainfall and low humidity are perfect for Pinot, which is quite susceptible to disease and mold. The glacial soils drain well and are high in mineral richness. Now, about 80% of all vines are Pinot Noir, with the remainder Chardonnay, Riesling (a good one is Felton Road) and Sauvignon Blanc. Some Pinot Gris and Gewürztraminer are also grown.
While wine grapes were first planted in Central Otago in 1864, they were elbowed aside by sheep and fruit trees until the mid-1970s. The bulk of vineyard planting didn’t take off until the mid-1990s. So Central Otago is a relatively new wine area, and vines are still young. In 1996 there were just 11 wineries in the Central Otago, according to New Zealand Winegrowers Association. By 2008 this had risen to over 100. The Otago Pinot Noirs lean toward elegance, with excellent ageing potential.
Acidity is one thing that sets them apart from Pinots produced in warmer areas. Winemakers in Central Otago believe that the purity of the environment is a key to the wines’ quality. They point out that there are major differences between 45º south and 45º north. For example, there is no other land in the south other than Patagonia, which is too windy to grow Pinot Noir. Over 100 million people live between 44 and 46º north, compared with about 400,000 in southern New Zealand. Some wine experts believe that in time, the Pinots of Central Otago will equal the best in the world.
Winemaker Dean Shaw, who makes Two Paddocks and Three Miners (see below) conducted a tasting in March of a dozen Central Otago Pinot Noirs. He pointed out that winemakers are being careful not to use too much oak given the youth of the vines. So the wines have a freshness and liveliness to them. As the vines mature, more new oak will likely be used and the wines will age longer in the barrels, gaining complexity. The wines came from six different sub-regions and the regional differences were generally apparent.
Some Recommended Wines
(2007 was an excellent year. Only wines with prices are imported into the U.S. * Indicates a personal favorite.)
* Two Paddocks-First Paddock 2007: Red berry
and herbal/thyme scents. Nice light body, good acidity.
Owned by actor Sam Neill and his family. Elegant.
Value. ($40.00)
Hawkshead 2007: Ripe red raspberry and mineral
notes. Nice acidity and fruit.
Rippon 2007: Lots of earthy notes and minerality.
Rich body and texture. ($45.00)
Shaky Bridge 2007: Big blackraspberry nose and
mouthfilling fruit.
* Three Miners 2007: Lush red berry nose with
mineral notes. Crisp acidity. A touch of red cherry.
* Amisfield 2007: Big red berry nose. Fruity and
rich texture. Hint of bacon. ($40.00)
Chard Farm-The Tiger 200: Herbal and fruit nose.
Full body with some bacon in the nose. Value.
($28.00)
Prophets Rock 2007: Minerals and light berry
notes. ($45-50.00)
* Quartz Reef 2007: Red berries and minerality in
nose and mouth. Elegance of a Burgundy. Value!
($35.00)
* Mt. Difficulty – Pipeclay Terrace 2007: Nice bitter
red fruit notes…currants. Mineral and earth hints.
($85.00)
Akarua 2007: Ripe black raspberry nose and dense
color. Rounded with balanced acidity.